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A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

Asembling the rig Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works Considerazioni iniziali sui rig Da un po' di tempo ho valutato quale attrezzatura acquistare. Ecco i miei pensieri e le decisioni attuali su un rig per la nuova barca. alberi Ci sono 3 tubi e un design scanalato tra cui scegliere, per quanto ne so. Groovy e tubo di Sailsetc, tubo di Housemartin e tubo di Pierre Gonnet. Attualmente ho longaroni e vele Housemartin e sono molto soddisfatto delle loro prestazioni. Ho comprato un kit di rig A, B e C l'anno scorso ed erano tutti competitivi, tuttavia ho letto che gli alberi PG sono più leggeri con flessibilità simile e avendo barche a vela, so che il peso in alto può fare la differenza in un chop, quindi sono ne proverò alcuni e confronterò pesi e rigidità e vedremo come si comportano. Dopo una chiacchierata con Potter Solutions, abbiamo deciso che 15 mm o meno è il pre-piegamento ottimale per il rig A. Più e puoi facilmente distorcere il longherone comprimendo l'albero mentre togli il prebend con lo strallo di poppa, oltre a introdurre una curvatura incontrollata tra crocette e segugi e introducendo troppa tensione con tempo leggero. Devo ammettere che ho sempre sofferto di un po' di fame di orza appena sotto il segugio e mi chiedevo se questo fosse causato dal pre-bend. boom Scelgo i boma del fiocco leggeri (asta della freccia Easton - 2515. 25/64 di pollice di diametro, 15 millesimi di pollice di spessore della parete) da Sailsetc avendone usato uno in precedenza e utilizzerò i tagli dell'albero per il boma principale e riutilizzerò i miei attuali colli d'oca e raccordi . Anche in questo caso l'idea è di scegliere la sezione più leggera della prua che richiede il contrappeso più leggero. Raccordi Uso un collo d'oca con cuscinetti a rulli per l'impianto A e un collo d'oca standard per B e C. Io uso crocette aerodinamiche ma sono appese al filo così facilmente regolabili. Le sartie corrono attraverso un foro nella parte anteriore dell'albero con un tappo a farfalla all'interno. Uso un anello cunningham sailsetc su tutti i longaroni poiché le mie vele Housemartin hanno sia la tensione dell'inferitura che l'occhio di cunningham. Vele Come ho detto sopra, uso le vele Housemartin e ho appena acquistato un nuovo set A per quest'anno. Dal punto di vista della competizione vedo che BG e Sailboat RC (campioni del mondo in carica) con le loro vele sagomate sembrano essere le vele preferite per i campionati, ma potrebbero essere solo i velisti che le usano. Per fortuna vedo membri a Emsworth che hanno entrambe le vele, quindi saranno in grado di fare un buon confronto tra tutti e tre. Naturalmente ci sono molti altri produttori di vele, ma questi sono i tre marchi vincitori del campionato mondiale che hanno attirato la mia attenzione dai dati disponibili al momento, tuttavia sono nuovo del gioco e probabilmente ho perso molte cose. Qual è il miglior pacchetto in assoluto? L'osservazione attuale suggerisce un pacchetto SailboatRC poiché hanno vinto gli ultimi due mondi e dominato altri eventi, ma il Britpop con il rig BG ha dominato in numeri e successi dal 2011. Chi dominerà ai Mondiali in Croazia l'anno prossimo? SailboatRC sono vele modellate all'avanguardia e ora hanno un design collaudato e chissà cos'altro hanno sulle carte. Non vedo l'ora di vedere come risponderanno gli altri progettisti e costruttori di vele. Geometria del fiocco. Sta tutto nella geometria. Quanti di voi hanno il problema del boma del fiocco che fuoriesce da una parte o dall'altra in condizioni di calma, rendendo impossibile la navigazione. Ho riscontrato questo problema da quando ho varato la mia prima barca. È stato solo in una discussione con Dave Potter la scorsa settimana che ho trovato la soluzione. Sta tutto nella geometria. Vedi l'immagine qui sotto. Il diagramma a destra ha due diagrammi. La sinistra mostra la configurazione che ho usato l'anno scorso. La mia linea di balumina si era impigliata intorno alle crocette un paio di volte ho pensato che fosse meglio usare una linea e legarla in avanti alla testa del fiocco non rendendomi conto che questo ha un impatto sulla geometria e ha causato il lancio del boma in un modo o nell'altro quando c'è c'è poco o nessun vento. Se vuoi vederlo in azione, alza la vela di prua, allenta la tua linea di balumina attuale e lega una linea di lisciviazione allentata all'estremità del boma del fiocco. Assicurati che la linea sia abbastanza lunga da raggiungere il punto di ingresso sull'albero. Metti la linea di orzatura e lisciviazione in una certa tensione. Per prima cosa sposta la parte superiore della linea della balumina a destra dell'albero (cioè a poppa) di circa un pollice come impostato nell'immagine e dovresti vedere il boma del fiocco tirare nella linea centrale della barca. Ora sposta la linea della balumina nella direzione opposta, davanti all'albero e dovresti vedere il boma del fiocco allontanarsi il più possibile dalla linea centrale. Parlando con Dave Potter, mi ha detto che lui e Deve Creed hanno risolto il problema legando la ralinga del fiocco e la cima della balumina ad una vite autofilettante, assicurando così che la cima della balumina e la cima di tensione della ralinga del fiocco intersecano l'albero esattamente nello stesso punto permettendo al fiocco braccio per ruotare liberamente in qualsiasi direzione Ci ho riflettuto per un po' e ho trovato un'altra soluzione usando filo e un bowsie. La cima della balumina e l'occhiello dell'inferitura del fiocco sono attaccati a un bowsie all'interno dell'albero. Escono dall'albero e l'inferitura del fiocco può essere agganciata ad un occhiello ricavato dal filo. Entrambi entrano nell'albero nello stesso punto impostando la corretta geometria. Dita incrociate questo significa che il boma del fiocco oscillerà facilmente da un lato all'altro in condizioni di calma. Ti farò sapere alla fine della settimana se funziona Altri pensieri sui rig La chiave per l'impostazione è ottenere la curvatura dell'albero in modo che corrisponda alla curva dell'inferitura principale. Se leggi gli articoli di Brad Gibson sulla messa a punto e vedi le ultime interviste con New York Central Park MYC, allora sentirai quanto sia precisa la sua configurazione. 1 Non c'è un uso pesante del Cunningham 2 Le sue vele sono molto lisce 3 Il piede principale è posizionato alla stessa profondità per tutte le condizioni 4 Il paterazzo sarà regolato da 2 a 4 mm solo attraverso la gamma di condizioni. 5 Segue le proprie misurazioni per iniziare il setup. Il messaggio chiave qui è avere una configurazione fissa. BG è in questo gioco da molto tempo e conosce una configurazione precisa per andare veloce. Possiamo abbreviare l'esperienza di apprendimento seguendo le note di installazione sul suo sito web o dal progettista di qualunque barca si navighi. Il Kantun ha una serie simile di numeri di installazione e istruzioni del progettista che vengono consegnati con le loro barche. Altri designer hanno fatto lo stesso. Ricorda se quando la tua barca è su un lato, hai problemi con i punti duri sull'inferitura della randa che devono essere rimossi da un eccessivo Cunningham, allora dovrai modificare le variabili a tua disposizione per sbarazzarti dei punti difficili. Loro sono: L'albero è in posizione verticale Angolo di allargamento (e controlla che siano simmetrici, cioè il tuo albero non ha ruotato) ram dell'albero Tensione della Sindone Ammorbidire o indurire la prepiega Se hai ancora un problema, controlla che l'albero sia dritto fino al punto di precurvatura, la tua precurvatura è progressiva piuttosto che una curva improvvisa. Naturalmente, se le tue vele sono vecchie, potrebbero essersi allungate e sarà difficile ottenere un risultato perfetto. Ti mostrerò la mia configurazione di seguito. Avrò un rig PG di Potter Solutions con vele Housemartin. Le impostazioni sono da sai dove. Potresti avere l'impressione a questo punto che io sia un fan di BG. È perché ha raccolto tutte le informazioni di configurazione rilevanti sul suo sito Web ed è il migliore che ho visto nei miei viaggi su Internet, ma simile a Kantun. Ha anche il design più vicino a un BritPOP disponibile (alternativa) per la costruzione domestica che ho. Per chi è interessato alle differenze di peso dell'albero, c'è una differenza di 20 g tra l'Housemartin e il longarone PG. Ho sentito dire che Sailsetc sparscome da qualche parte nel mezzo. I pesi erano 99 e 79 grammi. Non ho fatto una misurazione sulla rigidità, ma sono sicuro che qualcuno là fuori l'ha fatto. Entrambi si sentono abbastanza bene. Il prebend è di 15 mm su 600 mm sul rig A e 40 mm sul rig B con uno sul rig C. Il rig A e B è arrivato con un segno chiaro su ciascuno che mostra il punto esatto in cui è iniziata la precurvatura. Dopo aver segnato usando le dimensioni del piano della barca, ho appoggiato l'albero su un lungo tavolo. Usa un paio di blocchi rosa di sailsetc (vedi foto) o qualcosa di simile per assicurarti che i fori siano nella posizione corretta. Per iniziare, ho montato uno dei blocchi rosa e ho allineato l'albero in modo che la precurva fosse esattamente verticale rispetto al tavolo. Potrei quindi praticare il foro dello strallo e allineare ogni cosa a quello sapendo che ogni foro sarebbe allineato avanti e indietro o perpendicolare nel caso delle crocette. Il collo d'oca è incollato con della supercolla prima di forare e fissare con un paio di quadrati di materiale per il ponte sotto la parte inferiore del collo d'oca. Il boom ha solo bisogno di essere forato come sopra. Usando i blocchi di perforazione rosa per allineare la precurvatura con i fori per il fiocco, le sartie, le crocette e il collo d'oca. Pensiero del giorno - Finisci i rig Non resta che tagliare l'albero alla giusta lunghezza, adattarlo alla barca, aggiungere il paterazzo e il fiocco e quindi rifinire le estremità delle sartie. Per tagliare l'albero alla giusta lunghezza, ho usato un tubo fittizio inserito nel foro dell'albero e segnato i livelli del ponte inferiore e superiore e la posizione in cui volevo il collo d'oca e la fascia limite inferiore. Questo deve essere non meno di 60 mm sopra il livello del ponte inferiore, ma sull'alternativa è di circa 74 mm. Quindi misuro dal limite inferiore dell'albero effettivo fino al fondo con l'albero fittizio e taglio. Super incollato la testa dell'albero e il raccordo del tallone (una volta che l'albero era stato tagliato alla giusta lunghezza) in modo che non si muovessero. Poi ho messo l'albero nella barca, ho attaccato il fiocco e il paterazzo e ho sistemato l'albero dritto al rastrello sul piano. Successivamente, ho fissato i raccordi alle estremità delle sartie e fissato le viti del sartiame alla barca. L'impianto di perforazione è stato teso leggermente in modo da poter montare la randa e mettere a punto l'impianto di perforazione. Un ultimo lavoro è trovare un modo per fermare la rotazione accidentale dell'albero. Il consiglio è di usare il collo d'oca. Purtroppo i colli d'oca che uso non bloccano bene l'albero in posizione quindi dovrò trovare un'altra soluzione. Ho tagliato un pollice di sezione dell'albero e poi tagliarlo a metà e fissarlo sul fondo dell'albero con due fascette spesse per evitare che la sezione nastrata si comprima. In questo modo blocco l'albero centralmente e lo spingo anche leggermente in avanti nel passo dell'albero che dà alla barca un migliore equilibrio. Di seguito sono riportate alcune immagini del rig B completato Nota che non uso più la fascetta per cavi come perno del fiocco poiché continuavano a rompersi, quindi l'ho sostituita con un morsetto per boma Sailsetc e ho attaccato la linea al boma con un gancio per scotta. Ora sono in una posizione in cui posso alzare e abbassare il boma del fiocco.. Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails

Prima di un evento Determina qual è il tuo obiettivo nella vela Conosci il tuo regole e tattiche di corsa Gestisci il tuo investimento con attenzione manutenzione della barca Naviga veloce con la destra messa a punto e configurazione della barca Conosci i tuoi radiocomandi Efficace pratica della barca Garantire una configurazione coerente utilizzando liste di controllo Sapere come il tempo ti aiuterà Utile Riferimenti

Fitting the sails onto the rig Accedi Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Alzare le vele sul rig Una conversazione con mio fratello l'altro giorno mi ha fatto pensare a come dovrebbe funzionare l'impianto IOM. Entrambi navigavamo su gommoni e yacht. Per lo più navigavamo su yacht con attrezzatura frazionaria dove la parte inferiore dell'albero era controllata dalle sartie, dalle crocette e dai corridori. La curva veniva fissata fino ai cani e si aumentava o diminuiva quella curva, usando il pattino, tuttavia una volta impostato l'albero era abbastanza rigido. Il trucco era far funzionare l'albero per te sopra i segugi sulla sezione non supportata dell'impianto di perforazione frazionario. Lo scenario ideale è andato così. Se colpisci una raffica, la parte superiore della testa d'albero si piegherebbe, appiattendo la parte superiore della randa e aprendo la balumina in modo che la barca possa accelerare nella raffica. Non appena il vento si fosse calmato, l'albero si sarebbe raddrizzato e l'energia sarebbe stata ripristinata. Una volta abbiamo navigato su una barca che aveva esattamente l'equilibrio dell'attrezzatura. Significava che potevi trasportare più vela con una maggiore brezza e dava un enorme vantaggio competitivo. La barca ha vinto molte importanti regate offshore e inshore. Tuttavia l'attrezzatura IOM è tra un'attrezzatura frazionata e una di testa d'albero su uno yacht dove lo strallo e il paterazzo si incontrano in cima all'albero e la curva e quindi il controllo della balumina della randa è gestito interamente attraverso la regolazione dei pattini. Ovviamente ci sono altre regolazioni sugli yacht che sono importanti, ad esempio piede della randa, cunningham, ecc., che devono essere regolate attraverso le gamme di vento, ma in questo articolo mi concentrerò solo sulla piega dell'albero e sull'impatto sulla randa. L'impianto di perforazione IOM è da qualche parte tra una testa d'albero e uno yacht con attrezzatura frazionata. .Il nostro strallo si trova sopra i cani con un paterazzo in cima all'albero. La geometria è impostata in modo tale che con il prebend integrato nel longherone, raddrizzato dal paterazzo, la tensione viene messa nella linea di ralinga e balumina della vela di prua. La posizione della cima del fiocco sulla coperta assicura che la maggior parte di quella tensione scenda lungo l'inferitura del fiocco e non sulla cima della balumina. La curvatura dell'albero e quindi la forma della balumina della randa è controllata in tutto il pistone dell'albero, il rastrello della crocetta e la tensione sul paterazzo. La tensione della balumina del fiocco è controllata dalla linea della balumina. Vogliamo una configurazione del rig che dia un po' di sbuffi in modo che la barca acceleri e guidi, piuttosto che sbandamento e stallo. Quindi, come può essere raggiunto. Se leggi tutti i consigli chiave sulla configurazione del rig, stringi la tensione della sartia quel tanto che basta per impedire che la sartia sottovento si ammorbidisca quando di bolina. Ciò consente all'albero di flettersi leggermente a sbuffi fornendo accelerazione. Se l'albero è troppo rigido, il flusso d'aria si bloccherà e la barca non accelererà nel soffio. Inizia la configurazione della tua barca con la barca puntata come se stesse correndo. Tagliare lo strallo posteriore in modo che l'albero sia dritto a prua e a poppa. Imposta il piede della randa a una profondità di 15 mm o qualunque cosa suggerisca il tuo aliante. Impostare la tensione del kicker in modo che la balumina della randa sia leggermente attorcigliata con la stecca superiore appena esternamente parallela al boma principale. Controllare entrambe le strambate per assicurarsi che l'albero sia dritto in verticale. Il twist dovrebbe essere lo stesso su ogni strambata. Quindi punta la barca come se fosse in battuta. Presumo che tu abbia impostato il rastrello secondo il piano della barca usando un metro o un metro a nastro. Il nostro obiettivo è impostare la randa in modo che la stecca superiore sia parallela alla linea centrale del boma regolando il paterazzo e il ram dell'albero. Una volta impostato, non dovrebbe esserci bisogno di modifiche attraverso le gamme di vento, a parte le modifiche di 1 mm sul paterazzo. In un recente incontro zoom con Brad Gibson per il Central Park MYG negli Stati Uniti, Brad ha parlato di regolare il paterazzo di più o meno 2 mm. Non so voi, ma in passato ero leggermente più aggressivo sull'uso del paterazzo. Adesso capisco di più sulla precisione del setup e so cosa fanno i migliori, sto più attento. Con un po' di fortuna, se hai fatto tutto questo, avrai un rig dall'aspetto perfetto, e se non hai esagerato con la tensione della sartia, il rig funzionerà per te nelle raffiche. Ci sono abbastanza informazioni disponibili sulla configurazione dell'attrezzatura sul web, che dovresti essere in grado di ottenere l'impostazione giusta la prima volta e, cosa più importante, ricreare quell'impostazione ogni volta che vai a vela. Ecco alcune immagini per mostrare l'impatto delle modifiche di 1 mm sul paterazzo B rig. Inizia dal basso Inizia dal basso e lavora sul set di immagini. Mostrano la precurvatura incorporata nell'albero e quindi l'impatto graduale fino a 5 mm di ulteriore strallo posteriore. Puoi vedere l'effetto migliore sull'ammorbidimento della liscivia. Provalo sulla tua barca e guarda com'è il tuo rig. Ignorare l'impostazione del fiocco poiché la balumina è troppo stretta e il boma potrebbe essere leggermente allentato. La prossima volta che lo proverò, imposterò la fotocamera su un treppiede in modo che l'angolazione non cambi tra le immagini. Domani riceverò una serie di scatti simili per l'impianto A. Rig setup - L'impatto di 5mm sul rig A Solo un breve post per riflettere il mio modo di giocare con il rig A e pensieri sulle configurazioni per diverse condizioni di vento e chop. Vedi le foto qui sotto. Naturalmente in una brezza l'aspetto della vela sarà leggermente diverso. Un rig allestito con 15 mm di profondità del piede e albero dritto. Configurazione per acqua mossa. Ci sarà una perdita di torsione in una leggera brezza per l'accelerazione sulle onde L'immagine mostra come partendo da un albero dritto, qual è l'impatto dell'aggiunta di 5 mm alla parte posteriore di un rig di tipo A. Il paterazzo superiore a 10 mm provoca la distorsione della vela Next Section Weigh and check measure

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

A directory of championship races from around the world Video da tutto il mondo 2021 Regione 5 regata IOM Corpus Christi Texas 27 febbraio - 1 marzo 2020. Mondiali 2019 Brasile Calore 6 Flotta A Calore 6 Flotta E Calore 6 flotta B Calore 8 Flotta A Calore 8 flotta B Heat 9 Flotta A Calore 9 flotta B Heat 14 Flotta A Batteria 17 flotta A Heat 19 Flotta A Calore 19 flotta B Calore 20 flotta B Heat 22 Flotta D Calore 23 flotta B Heat 24 Flotta A Campionati nazionali australiani 2019 Giorno 1 2a gara di seeding Gara 4 Una flotta Gara 2 Una flotta Gara 10 Una flotta Gara 5 Una flotta Gara 5 B Flotta Gara 3 B Flotta Gara 13 Una flotta Regata 2018 Australia Sunshine Coast Giorno 4 Gara 1 Batteria 2 Giorno 4 Gara 1 Batteria 1 Gara 4 B Flotta Semina Gara 1 Semina gara 2 Gara 2 B Flotta Giorno 1 Gara 3 D Flotta Campioni dello stato del Queensland Gara 2 Una flotta Gara 2 B Flotta Gara 15 Una flotta Gara 18 Una flotta 2017 aperto IOM Masters Holland COPPA DI LIPSIA 2017 Nazionali australiani IOM 2017 Kogarah Bay I Mondiali OM 2015 Foster City Ultimo giorno Cittadini del Regno Unito 2012 a 2 Island RYC Giorno 1 Gara 1 Una flotta Campionati del mondo 2011 West Kirby Gara 18 Una flotta Gara 23 A Fleet - Brillante match race tra Peter Stollery 39 e Brad Gibson 42 Giorno 1 Giorno 2 Giorno 3 Giorno 4 Giorno 5 Giorno 6 Un po' di nostalgia

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Project I have sailed an IOM for two years and think I am beginning to understand how the boats are fitted together and pimped for speed. My challenge with racing the IOM is dealing with speed in a breeze so a sensible solution to developing my skill was to buy a faster boat and get used to the speed as well as understand how another boat design work and could be optimised. In looking into the Marblehead designs, I note that the Grunge is the boat of choice but unfortunately there were none available when I looked. The were a few Starkers designs available built by Dave Creed which seemed to be a good platform to get me started and one in particular took my eye so I took the plunge and bought it. Over the autumn and winter this year, my plan is to optimise the boat. It has a standard A rig, B, C 1,2,3. The A is a standard swing rig and the others conventional. All will need re rigging as the cord is over four years old and whilst not used cannot be considered to be reliable. The next section looks at the jobs list on the new boat.

Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.

How I chose a design and built my IOM Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

Here is what you get in the Alternative plan Acquista il piano Dopo aver esaminato tutti i diversi design, ho concluso che qualsiasi cosa simile a un Britpop doveva essere l'opzione migliore data la mia totale mancanza di conoscenza. Così ho comprato il design alternativo dal Sito web BG e questo mi ha dato Tutto quanto Avevo bisogno di costruire la barca includendo l'attrezzatura corretta impostare misurazioni. Cosa ottieni nei piani Note di progettazione Layout del mazzo Piano di coperta con posizioni dell'attrezzatura Elevazione laterale con tutte le misurazioni dal datum di poppa Telai dello scafo Telai di prua Modelli di apertura dello scafo Disposizione del sartiame dell'albero Disposizione del braccio del fiocco Disposizione del braccio principale Un ulteriore elemento sul sito Web di BG sono le impostazioni del rake per l'alternativa Una volta che avevo tutti i piani, ero sicuro di avere tutte le informazioni necessarie per costruire la barca.

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. Posizione di alcuni proprietari di IOM in tutto il mondo I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.

A summary of the build process and cost Costruire un IOM Introduzione e costi Nel 2020 ho costruito il mio primo IOM senza alcuna esperienza precedente. Ho rimuginato sul materiale di costruzione e ho optato per la resina epossidica di vetro dopo aver visto il video di Brad Gibson fare un plug. Ho comprato i materiali solo man mano che andavo avanti, nel caso avessi fallito nella mia ricerca. Non potevo immaginare la fine risultato essere un forte competitivo barca nelle gare locali. Ecco la storia della costruzione. Riepilogo e costo della build Per aggiungere un po' di colore alla mia build. Sono un vecchio marinaio e velista di gommoni e ho usato un po' il vetro in passato, ma niente come fare un modellino di yacht, quindi sono un costruttore per la prima volta. La mia sfida più grande: ci sono molte informazioni disponibili ma sono ampiamente diffuse su Internet. Puoi vedere su questo sito web le mie fonti e i collegamenti a ciascun sito a cui si fa riferimento. È iniziato come un progetto covid la scorsa primavera e sono stato ispirato dal video di Brad Gibson sulla costruzione di un plug maschio e ho realizzato che potevo costruire in più fasi senza impegnarmi finanziariamente per l'intero progetto, nel caso in cui fossi stato sconfitto in qualsiasi fase del processo. Avrei potuto percorrere la via del legno che sarebbe stata molto più economica, ma ho sentito che avrei potuto ottenere un risultato più leggero e più forte con Epoxy e non ho strumenti per il legno né per la resina epossidica. Quindi ho iniziato con 5 minuti di resina epossidica, un paio di tubi di UHU POR, un cartellino rosso, i piani di Brad Gibson £ 22, una scatola di polistirolo blu 600x600x100 mm £ 76, alcuni pannelli abrasivi di balsa e della carta vetrata. La prima fase è stata quella di costruire uno scafo discreto in schiuma che con mia grande sorpresa ho realizzato. Una volta arrivato a quel punto, ho potuto ordinare il tappetino in vetro e la resina epossidica e presto ho avuto uno stampo maschile. Realizzare lo scafo sopra lo stampo è stato relativamente facile, ma fai attenzione agli angoli a prua e a poppa perché puoi ottenere vuoti d'aria. Un problema era decidere il layup. Ci sono alcuni indizi dai produttori di barche, ma non sono sicuro se crederci. So che hai bisogno di un layup da 10 a 12 once per metro quadrato. Nel mio prossimo layup proverò 3 strati di vetro da 124 g che è un po' più leggero della mia prima barca Una volta estratto lo scafo dallo stampo, è importante disporre di una maschera in cui appoggiare lo scafo e utilizzare per misurare con precisione la lunghezza complessiva, centrare la chiglia e il timone e renderli perpendicolari alle linee centrali. Quindi si trattava di aggiungere i pezzi interni e costruire il rig. L'unico grande fallimento. Ho dimenticato di rinforzare lo scafo sotto l'albero e ho quasi spinto l'albero attraverso il fondo della barca, cosa che non sarebbe andata bene sull'acqua. A parte questo, tutto era hunky dory. Re il rig. Ho comprato un kit da Housemartin sails per le attrezzature, le vele e gli accessori. Non c'erano istruzioni con i bit, ma c'è un'ottima documentazione su come mettere insieme un rig su Salesetc e sono stato in grado di risolvere tutto da lì. Le vele sono economiche e molto belle da montare. Probabilmente hai solo bisogno di acquistare un rig A e B inizialmente. Ho comprato il timone della pinna, il bulbo e la custodia della pinna da Dave Creed che credo sia il migliore in quel settore. Dato che la barca è stata la prima in acqua, ho apportato molti perfezionamenti e penso di avere ora una barca configurata finale. La regola d'oro è: più semplice è, meglio è. La barca è competitiva ma sono sicuro che non sarà mai veloce come le migliori barche di produzione con vento forte. Il mio obiettivo è vedere fino a che punto posso arrivare in classifica quando iniziano gli eventi di classifica. La barca vince regolarmente a Frensham pond e durante una visita a Emsworth sono arrivato 4° dopo 10 regate su 15 in una flotta composta da barche di produzione guidate da alcuni velisti di grande esperienza. Saluti costi e tempi. Ho speso circa £ 400 per lo scafo (strumenti inclusi) e £ 900 per gli accessori (kit A, B, C £ 300, verricello rmg più interruttore £ 235, kit radio £ 108, bulbo pinna e timone £ 110). Ho realizzato la mia scatola per barca e la mia scatola per attrezzi per meno di £ 50. Confrontalo con l'acquisto del kit completo (compreso l'impianto di perforazione A - C, scatola di montaggio, supporto per barca, scatola per barca) per £ 3-4000 a seconda di dove acquisti. Se queste informazioni ti ispirano a costruire una barca, non rimarrai deluso e sono sempre felice di offrire qualsiasi consiglio. Puoi farlo con pazienza e soprattutto con una pianificazione molto attenta e ricorda che ci sono un sacco di persone là fuori, disposte ad aiutarti.