BUILD TUNE RACE RC YACHTS
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- Message us | IOM Build Race Tune
Learn about building, optimising, tuning and all aspect of racing radio sailing yachts Contattaci Grazie per l'invio! Invia
- Racing tips | IOM Build Race Tune
What to do before during and after racing plus tactics to get round the race course.
- Boat Box, Rig Box and Stand | IOM Build Race Tune
Building a travel boat for boat and rigs, boat storage box, rig box and stand Protect your investment International travel box, boat box, rig box and stand What you need to know Boat box made of 1/8th plywood to my own design and painted with epoxy and polyurethane left over from the boat build. Rig box is made from Correx reinforced with strip wood bonded with purpose made double sided tape Boat stand made from 20x20mm strip wood. Boat box for international travel designed by Peter Stollery The Details Boat Box The design is such you can lay the fin rudder and bulb in the bottom of the box on felt. The movable frames are cut out using the frame shape on the design plan. A layer of felt is added to protect the boat. Channels are cut out of the bottom of the frames for the fin bulb and rudder. The frames hold these securely in place. Once the frames are in the boat is added. The lid is designed to just touch the frames so nothing can move inside the box whichever way up it is held. Immagine 4 Local Transport To transport the boat locally when fully rigged to the club, I wrap a couple of loops of insulation foam around the hull to stop the hull resting on the boot of the car. In addition I edge the fin and rudder and bulb with the same foam. Boat support frame A very simple construction made out of 20x20mm strip wood and hinged with a couple of bolts. Remember to cut any excess bolt off as this can damage the fin. The boat can be sat at an angle to for rig set up. Proteggi il tuo investimento Boat Box, Rig Box e stand Cosa hai bisogno di sapere Scatola per barca realizzata in compensato 1/8 su mio disegno e verniciata con resina epossidica e poliuretano rimasti dalla costruzione della barca. Rig box è realizzato in Correx rinforzato con listelli di legno legati con nastro biadesivo appositamente realizzato Supporto per barca realizzato in listellare di legno 20x20mm. I dettagli (Immagine 1,2 e 3) Scatola della barca Il design è tale che puoi appoggiare il timone e il bulbo della pinna nella parte inferiore della scatola su feltro. I telai mobili vengono ritagliati utilizzando la forma del telaio sul piano di progettazione. Viene aggiunto uno strato di feltro per proteggere la barca. I canali sono tagliati dal fondo dei telai per il bulbo della pinna e il timone. I telai li tengono saldamente in posizione. Una volta che i telai sono nella barca viene aggiunto. Il coperchio è progettato per toccare semplicemente i telai in modo che nulla possa muoversi all'interno della scatola in qualunque modo sia tenuto. Trasporto locale (immagine 4) Per trasportare la barca localmente quando è completamente attrezzata al club, avvolgo un paio di anelli di schiuma isolante attorno allo scafo per evitare che lo scafo poggi sul bagagliaio dell'auto. Inoltre bordo la pinna, il timone e il bulbo con la stessa schiuma. Telaio supporto barca (Immagine 4) Una costruzione molto semplice realizzata con listelli di legno 20x20mm e incernierati con un paio di bulloni. Ricordati di tagliare qualsiasi bullone in eccesso in quanto ciò può danneggiare la pinna. La barca può essere seduta inclinata per l'installazione dell'impianto di perforazione. Scatola per vele (Immagine 5 e 6) Questo ha richiesto un po 'di perfezionamento, ma è un modo davvero economico per creare una scatola rig robusta e resistente alle intemperie. Ho comprato 3 fogli di Correx 8 piedi x 4 piedi x 2 mm da QUI e il nastro biadesivo per incollare il listello di legno QUI Correx È così facile da tagliare e piegare ed è molto forte quando rinforzato con listelli di legno sui bordi e fissato sotto ogni albero. Ho usato le clip portapenne attaccate con il nastro biadesivo per tenere in posizione gli alberi. Nota che Correx è molto difficile attaccarci qualcosa. Il nastro biadesivo sopra e il velcro aderiscono molto bene. Costa £ 30 in totale e ho altri 2 fogli di Correx se questo viene danneggiato. Peter Stollery's international travel box Peter very kindly sent me the details of his magic box for transporting my IOM and rigs on a plane to Australia. The box is easy to assemble with care and cheap to build. I have made one myself but painted it white inside and out. With a 3d printed boat, I wanted to reflect heat if the box ever got left out in the sun airside. Basically it is a standard rig box shape on plan but with a much deeper section at the top of the rig to enclose the boat. A strong bulkhead is fitted in the middle to which the bulb and fin is bolted (the rig bag slides under the bulkhead). I carefully slide the bulb into a tight fitting piece of plumbing pipe for which there are standard brackets to hold it in place (short pieces of pipe insulation are rammed into the ends and then jammed against the sides of the box to make sure the bulb can't move). For the Italy trip I also carried 2 Tx which were secured with string and then sandwiched with soft foam when the lid was fitted. Also added for Italy was a small tool kit (ice cream tub) and all the essential spares dotted about and wrapped in bubble wrap. All up weight was 15kg. Everything else went in hand luggage. I built the box to go to Canada in 2003 and it has survived trips to Spain, Australia and Italy without any damage [also San Fransisco 2015, Brazil 2019, Croatia 2022 and Spain 2023 with Shaun Priestley]. The only down side is that the lid is secured by 20 screws so it is a bit of a hassle if security want to look inside!! If you do decide to build, make sure everything is carefully packed and secured (especially the bulb) as the consequences of 'loose' packing with this type of box are obviously much more dramatic! Here is a diagram with the overall dimensions of the magic box followed by a set of pictures showing how everything fits inside The grey pipe is 38mm internal diameter and is 380mm long. The slit is 218mm long and about 5mm wide. The bulb has a sock which is a bit of old duster I think. The bulb goes into the tube with the aft end of the bulb first. This means the trailing edge of the fin comes to a stop at the end of the slit. This is because the tube is secured in the box with the forward (blunt!) end of the bulb pointing at the ground (ie the away from the carrying handle). This means that gravity will be trying to push the bulb and fin out of the slit in the tube and it will be the blunt end pushing on the side of the box (rather than the really sharp end trying to poke its way out of the box!). That said, the bulb should be so tightly jammed in the tube that it can't move! Back to sliding the bulb in to the tube, there is a piece of thin but tough white plastic folded in half and taped to the back edge of the fin. Not only does this protect the back edge but it protects the sides if the fin from being scratched by the edges of the slit when you slide the bulb in. It is a very tight fit with the duster and the bulb actually opens up the slit a bit to accommodate the bulb. There is some duck tape around the slit end of the pipe to pull this in tight. At the pointy end I jam in some thin walled pipe insulation and then jam in some chunkier short sections of pipe insulation. The box should effectively be pushing these in (ie they should be sticking out of the tube until the tube is put in the box. When clamped to the bulkhead which you'll see in a later email, there is another sponge packer which keeps everything really. tight. The bulk head and the bulb packing is the most important bit as clearly we don't want it coming loose! The plastic pipe is slightly shorter than the internal width of the box but the chunky bits of pipe insulation at each end are long enough so that they can't be forced completely inside the tube. This means they stick out and have to be squashed in against the box at each end i.e. the box ends up trying to force the pipe insulation in which helps keep everything tight. The Bulkhead The bulkhead is 6mm ply with 20 x 20mm stiffner along the top and down the sides. The bulkhead is fitted at 90 degrees to the side with the handle attached. The cut out is shaped with the highest bit 54mm above the base of the box. Basically, you cut out the minimal amount to get the rig bag in so that as much strength is retained. When I slide the rig bag in I have to flex the masts a small amount to get them in. The pipe clips are permanently screwed to the bulkhead through their top hole and then removeable nuts and bolts secure it through the bottom hole. The box is made with 3mm ply with 20 x 20mm framing. The ply is glued and pinned at 100mm centres to the framing. The lid is entirely 3mm ply with the exception of one piece of 20mm framing which runs from the widest end of the box to the bulkhead. The mast laid on the box in the image attached shows the line of where this bit of reinforcing sits when the lid is on. This simply stiffens the lid over the top of where the fin lies. There are 3mm ply 80mm diameter reinforcing patches either side of the bulkhead which take the handle attachments. Here is a picture of the lid with its reinforcing bar. The rig bag slides in under some zig zagging rope which helps to keep it secure. Note that the masts are along the side which doesn't have the handle (ie the bottom of the box when being carried). The bulb tube is bolted into the clips making sure the pipe insulation is tight against the sides of the box. The boat goes deck down (normally with the rudder off of course!). I have two straps which go around the hull which are attached to the handle side of the box. As with the bulb and rigs, the straps are so that the boat can't slip or move down when the box is being carried. I haven't put any bubble wrap or foam packers in around the boat but normally the front section is full of padding. The tool box, spares, txs etc.... Are all secured to the bottom of the box (bottom when its being carried). To be honest I can't remember exactly hiw this is done but so long as the stuff can't come loose it should be fine. All up weight with everything in was around 15kg I think. Note 1. All the dims on the drawing are external overall dims and include the lid thickness. 2. As previous email there is only one bar fixed to the lid. 3. The bulkhead is 6mm ply and framing and is very strong. The framing down the sides of the bulkhead is screwed in from the outside rather than pinned. 4. The 410mm dim is the overall dimension to the face of the ply measured along the line of the bulkhead. 5. There is no bulkhead around the txs. They are just tied in with plenty of foam packing around them.
- IOM | IOM Build Race Tune
A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The IOM Project BUILDING AND RACING ONE METRES 2 Alternatives 2 Britpops 2 Alioths 2 Proteus (One broke and current)
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Per testare questa funzione, visita il tuo sito online. Tutti i post I miei post The Forum Browse the forum below & start posting questions, tips, and anything else that you'd like to share with the community. Ordina Per: Attività recenti Segui tutte le categorie Crea un nuovo post Comments Visualizzazioni Attività recenti Item option menu Jib pivot guido02474 0 0 10 feb 2023 I made an improvement to my alternative so that I can adjust the rake better rc zeilen 0 1 01 lug 2022 Forum - Frameless
- Members | IOM Build Tune Setup Race
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- Building, tuning, racing IOM and radio Model Yachts |
IOM Build Race tune is the best site on the web for all things IOM and radio yacht racing. How to build, setup and race your boat Building, tuning, racing IOM and radio Model Yachts Welcome to Barrow's unique information site for radio sailing. If you are looking to get into radio sailing, improve your performance or learn about building and setting up these tricky boats, then this is the site for you. Boat building, setting up the boats, maximising sailing performance and much much more. Either click on a heading or search for something generically using the search box. Using a mobile, the menu is accessed by clicking on the three horizontal lines at the top of the screen. Please note that this is a members only site so sign up when asked to get access to the best radio sailing content on the web. Click on any of the restricted tabs to get to the sign up page. It only asks for a name and email address. The privacy policy can be accessed at the bottom of the page. The About, Useful websites and more tabs are available to view as a taster. I hope you enjoy site. Please send me a message if you want anything added or researched. What will you find: About - Explains why I created the site, who its for and a bit about me Blog - As I come across ideas or sail in events, I put articles and reports in here Useful websites - This is a list of all the sites I identified in my journey to build and race boats The classes - Include building, setting up and racing IOM's, DF65, DF95 and Marbleheads Racing tips - There is a lot packed into here for new and a new section for advanced skippers More - My race schedule, results, reference books, advice for new entrants and acknowledgements Look on this site as a text book for all things radio sailing.
- IOM designs | IOM Build Race Tune
Alcuni libri che ti piacerebbe leggere Teoria Teoria e pratica della vela di CA Marchaj 1964 Aero-Idrodinamica della Vela di CA Marchaj 1979 Performance velica di CA Marchaj 1996 Vela ad alte prestazioni di Frank Bethwaite 2010 (2a edizione) Pratica Esperto in gommone da Paul Elvstrom 1963 Vento e strategia di Stuart Walker 1973 Championship Dinghy Sailing di Christopher Caswell e David Ullman 1978 Guardando le vele di Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979 Vincere - La psicologia della concorrenza di Stuart Walker 1980 Tattiche di corsa avanzate di Stuart Walker 1981 Vela, regata e vinci di Eric Twiname 1982 Questo è Boat Tuning for Speed di Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984 Vela per vincere serie - Dinghy Helming di Lawrie Smith 1983 - Strategia del vento di David Houghton 1984 - Accordare il tuo gommone di Lawrie Smith 1985 - Boatspeed di Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986 RYA Race Training Manual di Jim Saltonstall 1983 I miei ringraziamenti a Brian Outram (Australia) per la sua lista di letture Fatemi sapere i vostri libri preferiti così li aggiungo alla lista
- The optimised Alternative build | IOM Build Race Tune
The new optimised Alternative boat build When I play golf, if I drive off the tee and lose my ball because of an errant swing, why is it that my second attempt is nearly always perfect making me wonder why didn't I swing like that on my first shot! It's kind of like that when you build a second boat. The first attempt is full of small errors, air bubbles, lifted glass at the bow and stern, too much epoxy used, etc. The second boat has errors but it is much better and lighter. I started the second boat yesterday afternoon and unwrapped it this morning and what a beauty she looks. If you are interested, here is what I did with a few pictures. I started by repairing the old hull plug, patching up some damage when I cut the previous boat off the plug with a dremel. After a rub down and 5 coats of release wax it was good as new and ready for the layup. I cut out 3 sheets of 124gm S glass from a paper pattern I made earlier. I acquired 3 sheets of brown paper which were from a delivery of an old flower arrangement (my wife's!). With care, I cut the glass cloth straight onto the brown paper from the paper pattern I made earlier. The cloth was cut with no mess. In addition to the cutting, I drew a centre line with a felt pen and perpendicular lines (to the centreline) for the bow, stern and edge of the foredeck. This is done to allow easy alignment (when laying down the cloth onto the plug) with a centreline drawn down the keel of the hull along with a mark to indicate the foredeck. The brown paper not only seperated the 3 layers of cloth but also allows the cloth to be rolled up and carried as well as protecting the edges, keeping the cloth flat and clean. (Image 1) Last summer on the first boat build, I cut the glass outside on a table, did not use any paper or protective cover and ended up with strands of glass fibre all over the patio! With the cloth prepared, I was ready to lay the hull up in the garden shed. Yesterday it was about 12 degrees which is just warm enough to work with epoxy. I needed a workbench to clamp the hull upside down (Image 4), a piece of wood hanging from the shed ceiling to screw the plug support post to work on the deck (Image 3), paper towel to wipe up mess, acetone for cleaning, nitril gloves to protect my hands, West System epoxy (slow cure), three plastic pots (I use fromage frais pots), a 2 inch paint brush and an aluminium roller for removing air bubbles, peel ply for wrapping the epoxy, screwdriver and electric drill for mounting and dismounting the plug. With all the bits together on site, I was ready to go. After mixing the epoxy using the self measuring plungers that you screw on the resin and hardener tins (3 pushes of the plunger will do one layer of glass) I applied resin to the hull side of the plug, being careful to wet the curves of the deck. The epoxy will not lie smooth on the wax and will pull back into globules looking a bit messy but it won't matter. Taking the first layer of cloth and with the boat mounted upside down on the workbench, hold it over the hull aligning the centreline, bow, stern and foredeck marks before laying the cloth down on the epoxied plug. (Image 2 3 and 4) Gently smooth out the cloth with the paint brush and work out from the centre until the cloth is flat all over. This is quite fiddly but by taking time and being patient the cloth will lay out perfectly. Next step is to go over the cloth with the paint brush (be very gentle) and wetting the cloth where dry, removing air bubbles as you go. Use the epoxy sparingly as excess resin just adds weight. Finally go over the hull with the aluminium roller to get any missed air bubbles. Now remove the plug from the workbench and screw to the bar dropping from the shed ceiling. Initially fix the hull upside down and then carefully allow the plug to rotate down while supporting the cloth over the deck, until the deck is level. (In my first build last summer, I picked the plug from the workbench after wetting the cloth on the hull, rotated it so the deck was uppermost, raised it up to the supporting bar and the glass cloth fell off onto the floor. You have been warned!) Before you work the cloth into the deck with the paintbrush, cut away any excess. On the first layer I used a 1 inch overlap. On the second layer, I butt the ends of the cloth (ie no overlap) and on the third layer use an overlap again. In this way you avoid too much weight along the centreline of the deck. On my first boat I ended up with 6 layers of cloth on the centreline which produced a strong boat but heavy in the ends. Work the cloth into the deck with the paint brush in the same way as the hull, until flat and smooth. Sorry there are no pictures of this as my gloves were coated in epoxy at the time! Check over the hull and deck in good light to make sure there are no air bubbles and the cloth is tightly bonded at the bow and stern. Leave the plug until the epoxy remaining in your mixing jug starts to go stringy. When this happens, the first layer of cloth will be stuck nicely to the plug and won't move when you apply the second layer. The longer you can leave it between layers the better. Half an hour should be long enough. Wash your paint brush, gloves and roller in acetone and mix the second batch of epoxy. Bin the 1st mixing pot. For the second layer, drape the cloth over the hull taking care with the alignment marks and brush out as before using just enough epoxy to wet the cloth. Repeat for the third layer remembering to clean tools in between. I use four plunges of epoxy for the last layer because I wanted the outer layer slightly wetter. Any excess would be absorbed by the peel ply. Finally wrap in peel ply. I used 10 metres of 100mm wide. Overkill I know but it did an amazing job even though the hull look a bit mummy like. (Image 5) At the same time as laying up the hull, I made the components in Image 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 and 18. The fin box was Dave Creed's work. A thin sheet for the bow stern and bulkheads The mould for the deck layout above the fin box and final deck Strip of S glass for bonding the deck Reinforcement for the fordeck understanding the jib tack eyes The radio pot and forward bulkhead Paper template for forward bulkhead I peeled the peel ply off this morning to discover a hull with no air bubbles, perfect adhesion at the bow, stern and foredeck. In all the process took about 3 hours All I need now are two coats of epoxy primer rubbed smooth and I am ready to pop the hull off the plug. Here is the rough finish prior to sanding The finished hull popped off the mould safely in its supporting jig with the deck taped together to hold it secure It all looks good and I know that the hull is useable so I can pay the second design fee and fit the boat out. Having added two coats of epoxy primer, it is time to rub it all back to the surface of the S glass to make the hull as light and as smooth as possible. Up to two hours sanding. Joy! but the end result is worth the effort. After painting on 250gms of High build epoxy primer, I sanded 200gms off on Saturday. The result is a very light smooth hull which you can see through. The hull will remain in this condition until the deck has been finished and all the holes drilled. Then it is time for the vinyl wrap in metallic blue. Can't wait to see how it ends up when cut off the mould. Once the hull is off the mould it goes straight into a support jig, with the frames cut from the design plan. This jig is marked and used for setting the fin position and rudder. (Image 7) The foredeck and aft deck is bonded using 1 layer of 124gm s cloth (Image 13). The hull is strong and ready for the fin box, bulkhead and adjoining deck and radio pot to be bonded in. On Sunday I cut all the access holes, (Image 33) and added two further layers of S glass around the fin box area in the hull, bonded the deck with an extra layer of S glass at the jib take off point and fitted the transom I put small reinforcing plates in the deck at the stern and put 1 layer of S glass about 1 inch wide down the centre of the foredeck. All up weight of the hull with all glass infrastructure but ex fitting will be around 400gms, considerably lighter than my first hull especially in the ends but heavier than the professional hulls. Having said that the hull is very strong, light in the ends and should be competitive. Todays job is to fit the fin, bulkhead, deck moulding and radio pot and a post for the jib tack take off point. On course to finished hull by end of week. A long day sealing the bow and stern, (Image 18 and 19) strengthening the foredeck, building an ultra light foredeck post (Image 14), cutting a slot in the hull (Image 21), measuring and shaping the forward bulkhead (Image 15 and 16) , fin case and deck. Lots of pictures below in a slightly random order. Tomorrow I hope to bond in all the pieces and then the only other major jobs are to fit the plates for the servo and rudder stock which will likely be done on Wednesday. Then a final rub down and drill all the holes for the deck fittings. Finally after that I can wrap the boat in its metallic blue vinyl. Its an experiment but I am sure it will be worth the effort and if it doesn't work I can always paint it. Fitting the fin Yesterday was all about getting the fin box fitted. Alignment of the fin in exactly the right position with the design measurements and having it vertical is the most critical job on the boat. Get this wrong and the boat will be hard to balance and may sail higher on one tack that the other. The boat in my jig is set up to be level on its water line, ie there is a horizontal line connection the bottom of the bow and bottom of the stern. The leading edge of the fin sits perpendicular to this line. Get the jig right and everything is easy. On the plan there are two measurements, one from the hull to the leading edge of the fin and then one from the tip of the bow to the bottom of the fin where it enters the bulb. Set these measurements and the fin leading edge should be perpendicular tp the waterline of the boat. I was less than a degree out. See image 24-27. To get the fin exactly vertical looking from the stern, I level the boat at the shroud point and use a level on the fin to make vertical and then use masking tape to secure it. Gravity helps in picture 27. The string in the picture is used to measure from the bow to the fin but I did have to make holes in the jig. Tomorrow, I can fit the final pieces of the deck and the bulkhead. Finishing the bonding Yesterday was gluing day. Fitted the forward deck, pre drilled bulkhead, radio pot holder and mainsheet post. Only one small error. I forgot to seal and reinforce the top of the fin box I have the fiddliest job to do that today plus final fit for the servo mount and rudder stock mount. Nest jobs are to pre drill all the fitting holes, apply filler where required and final sand ready to apply wrap. When fitting the mainsheet post, I accurately measured a centreline at the deck and then did the same with a string 6 inches off the deck. Then using a set square I was able to get the mainsheet post upright and aligned with the fin case, back stay, jib sheet eyes and jib attachment points which are all marked up. Fingers crossed the sails will set the same on both tacks. Hull weight so far is 420gms. Old hull weight at this point 620gms. Maybe 350gms is achievable with a slightly thinner layup. I was generous with the epoxy at the base of the fin but this is where the correctors with be anyway. Estimate approx 400gms of correctors will be required. Tidying up Final bit of reinforcement went in yesterday. Not much to show as boat looks similar to day before but with addition of rudder stock and servo supports. Giving the hull a good t cut to look for any rough spots and then the metallic blue wrap Little remaining jobs to do after the wrap like final fit of fin and add the electronics and fittings Finished the build With the final jobs knocked off on Friday the hull is ready for wrapping. I spent today sanding and cleaning the hull and deck, final fit of the fin and rudder which ended up exactly according to the design plans and are both in line with each other. Tomorrow will be wrapping day. Ordered the new PG tubes from Potters Solutions and a couple of bits and bobs from Sailsetc. Once the boat is wrapped I can set up the new rigs using existing fittings apart from the shrouds. Then a bit of in house tuning and I am ready to get on the water. Its not a wrap The wrap failed. There is so much curvature in the hull and deck, you need to stretch the wrap so much before application and you need several pairs of hands, so it's back to the paint spraying. The boat is finished bar the spray and as Mr Gibson said you are far better off with paint as damaged vinyl is impossible to repair. He should know he used to wrap 18 footers amongst other things. Why didn't I speak to him first. The dream was there, the experience was missing. Loved the metallic finish but it is not to be. Onwards and upwards and off to watch the 18 footers race round Sydney harbour in the JJ Giltinan. On the computer of course Decision time on paint It has been a long process trying to sort the paint for the boat. I could use my tried and tested 2 pack polyurethane which I know is hard durable and the right solution, but I do want to spray to keep the decks looking smart. As you know I tried using vinyl wrap but the curves of the boat proved too much. The search took me to spray cans of epoxy, enamel and other finishes but I came across an industrial acrylic based paint in a spray can. It is designed for repair of industrial coatings indoor or external. Its a risk I know but I prepared a sample this afternoon and it has great colour, is hard, flexible, great UV properties and resistant to scratches. The date sheet is here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf So on it goes tomorrow and we will see how the paint performs. The pictures below show the new spray look on a sample and the effect I am trying to avoid when painting 2 pack Polyurethane. I will show you the result tomorrow and then see how it wears when we get sailing. La nuova costruzione della barca alternativa ottimizzata Quando gioco a golf, se esco dal tee e perdo la palla a causa di uno swing errato, perché il mio secondo tentativo è sempre perfetto e mi chiedo perché non ho oscillato in quel modo al mio primo tiro! È un po' così quando costruisci una seconda barca. Il primo tentativo è pieno di piccoli errori, bolle d'aria, vetri sollevati a prua e a poppa, troppa resina epossidica usata, ecc. Ho avviato la seconda barca ieri pomeriggio e l'ho scartata stamattina e che bellezza è. Se sei interessato, ecco cosa ho fatto con alcune foto. Ho iniziato riparando il vecchio tappo dello scafo, riparando alcuni danni quando ho tagliato la barca precedente con un dremel. Dopo una strofinata e 5 mani di cera distaccante, era come nuova e pronta per il layup. Ho ritagliato 3 fogli di vetro da 124 g S da un cartamodello che avevo realizzato in precedenza. Ho acquistato 3 fogli di carta marrone che provenivano dalla consegna di una vecchia composizione floreale (di mia moglie!). Con cura, ho tagliato il panno di vetro direttamente sulla carta marrone dal cartamodello che ho fatto in precedenza. La stoffa è stata tagliata senza sporcare. Oltre al taglio, ho disegnato una linea centrale con un pennarello e linee perpendicolari (alla linea centrale) per la prua, la poppa e il bordo del ponte di prua. Questo viene fatto per consentire un facile allineamento (quando si stende il telo sul tappo) con una linea centrale tracciata lungo la chiglia dello scafo insieme a un segno per indicare il ponte di prua. La carta marrone non solo ha separato i 3 strati di stoffa, ma consente anche di arrotolare e trasportare il panno oltre a proteggere i bordi, mantenendo il panno piatto e pulito. (Immagine 1) L'estate scorsa sulla prima costruzione della barca, ho tagliato il vetro esterno su un tavolo, non ho usato carta o copertura protettiva e ho finito con fili di fibra di vetro in tutto il patio! Con il telo preparato, ero pronto per posare lo scafo nella casetta da giardino. Ieri c'erano circa 12 gradi, abbastanza caldi per lavorare con la resina epossidica. Avevo bisogno di un banco da lavoro per bloccare lo scafo capovolto (Immagine 4), un pezzo di legno appeso al soffitto del capannone per avvitare il palo di sostegno del tassello per lavorare sul ponte (Immagine 3), carta assorbente per pulire il disordine, acetone per pulire , guanti di nitrile per proteggere le mie mani, resina epossidica West System (polimerizzazione lenta), tre vasetti di plastica (io uso pentole fromage frais), un pennello da 2 pollici e un rullo di alluminio per rimuovere le bolle d'aria, peel ply per avvolgere la resina epossidica, cacciavite e trapano elettrico per il montaggio e lo smontaggio della spina. Con tutti i pezzi insieme sul posto, ero pronto per partire. Dopo aver miscelato la resina epossidica utilizzando i pistoni automisuratori che si avvitano sui barattoli di resina e indurente (3 pressioni dello stantuffo faranno uno strato di vetro) ho applicato la resina sul lato scafo del tappo, facendo attenzione a bagnare le curve del ponte. La resina epossidica non giacerà liscia sulla cera e si ritirerà in globuli con un aspetto un po' disordinato, ma non importa. Prendendo il primo strato di stoffa e con la barca montata capovolta sul banco da lavoro, tenerlo sopra lo scafo allineando i segni di mezzeria, prua, poppa e ponte di prua prima di appoggiare il telo sul tappo epossidico. (Immagine 2 3 e 4) Appianare delicatamente il panno con il pennello e lavorare dal centro fino a quando il panno non è completamente piatto. Questo è abbastanza complicato, ma impiegando tempo e pazienza il panno si stenderà perfettamente. Il prossimo passo è passare il panno con il pennello (sii molto delicato) e bagnare il panno dove è asciutto, rimuovendo le bolle d'aria mentre procedi. Usa la resina epossidica con parsimonia poiché la resina in eccesso aggiunge solo peso. Infine ripassare lo scafo con il rullo in alluminio per ottenere eventuali bolle d'aria mancanti. Ora rimuovi il tappo dal banco da lavoro e avvitalo alla barra che cade dal soffitto del capannone. Fissare inizialmente lo scafo capovolto e poi far ruotare con cautela il tappo sostenendo il telo sopra la coperta, fino a quando la coperta non è a livello. (Nella mia prima costruzione l'estate scorsa, ho preso la spina dal banco da lavoro dopo aver bagnato il panno sullo scafo, l'ho ruotato in modo che il ponte fosse più in alto, l'ho sollevato fino alla barra di supporto e il panno di vetro è caduto sul pavimento. stato avvertito!) Prima di lavorare il panno nel ponte con il pennello, taglia via l'eccesso. Sul primo strato ho usato una sovrapposizione di 1 pollice. Sul secondo strato, unisco le estremità del tessuto (cioè nessuna sovrapposizione) e sul terzo strato uso di nuovo una sovrapposizione. In questo modo eviti troppo peso lungo la linea centrale del ponte. Sulla mia prima barca ho finito con 6 strati di stoffa sulla linea centrale che hanno prodotto una barca forte ma pesante alle estremità. Lavorare il panno nella coperta con il pennello allo stesso modo dello scafo, fino a renderlo piatto e liscio. Spiacente, non ci sono immagini di questo perché i miei guanti erano rivestiti in resina epossidica in quel momento! Controllare lo scafo e la coperta in buona luce per assicurarsi che non ci siano bolle d'aria e che il tessuto sia ben aderito a prua e poppa. Lascia il tappo finché la resina epossidica rimasta nella caraffa non inizia a diventare fibrosa. Quando ciò accade, il primo strato di stoffa si attaccherà bene alla spina e non si muoverà quando applicherai il secondo strato. Più a lungo puoi lasciarlo tra gli strati, meglio è. Mezz'ora dovrebbe essere abbastanza. Lava il pennello, i guanti e il rullo con acetone e mescola il secondo lotto di resina epossidica. Raccogli la prima pentola di miscelazione. Per il secondo strato, drappeggiare il panno sullo scafo facendo attenzione ai segni di allineamento e spazzolare come prima usando la resina epossidica quanto basta per bagnare il panno. Ripeti per il terzo strato ricordando di pulire gli strumenti in mezzo. Uso quattro tuffi di resina epossidica per l'ultimo strato perché volevo che lo strato esterno fosse leggermente più umido. L'eventuale eccesso verrebbe assorbito dal peel ply. Infine avvolgere nel peel ply. Ho usato 10 metri di larghezza 100 mm. Overkill Lo so, ma ha fatto un ottimo lavoro anche se lo scafo sembra un po' mummia. (Immagine 5) Allo stesso tempo ho realizzato i componenti in Immagine 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 e 18. La scatola delle pinne era opera di Dave Creed. Stamattina ho staccato il peel ply scoprendo uno scafo senza bolle d'aria, perfetta aderenza a prua, poppa e prua. In tutto il processo ha richiesto circa 3 ore Tutto ciò di cui ho bisogno ora sono due mani di primer epossidico levigato e sono pronto per staccare lo scafo dal tappo. (Immagine 6 e 7) Se tutto sembra a posto e so che lo scafo è utilizzabile, posso pagare la tassa di progettazione e allestire la barca. Dopo aver aggiunto due mani di primer epossidico, è il momento di strofinare il tutto sulla superficie del vetro S per rendere lo scafo il più leggero e liscio possibile. Fino a due ore di levigatura. Gioia! ma il risultato finale vale lo sforzo. Dopo aver dipinto su 250 g di primer epossidico ad alto spessore, sabato ho levigato 200 g. Il risultato è uno scafo liscio molto leggero che puoi vedere attraverso. Lo scafo rimarrà in queste condizioni fino a quando la coperta non sarà terminata e tutti i fori saranno praticati. Quindi è il momento per l'involucro in vinile in blu metallizzato. Non vedo l'ora di vedere come va a finire quando si stacca dallo stampo. Una volta che lo scafo è uscito dallo stampo, va direttamente in una maschera di supporto, con i telai tagliati dal piano di progettazione. Questa maschera è contrassegnata e utilizzata per impostare la posizione della pinna e il timone. (Immagine 7) Il ponte di prua e il ponte di poppa sono incollati con 1 strato di tessuto da 124 g (Immagine 13). Lo scafo è robusto e pronto per l'incollaggio della scatola delle pinne, della paratia e del ponte adiacente e della radio. Domenica ho tagliato tutti i fori di accesso, (Immagine 33) e ho aggiunto due ulteriori strati di vetro S intorno all'area della scatola delle pinne nello scafo, ho incollato la coperta con un ulteriore strato di vetro S al punto di stacco del fiocco e ho montato lo specchio di poppa Ho messo piccole piastre di rinforzo nel ponte a poppa e ho messo 1 strato di vetro S largo circa 1 pollice al centro del ponte di prua. Il peso totale dello scafo con tutte le infrastrutture in vetro ma franco montaggio sarà di circa 400 grammi, notevolmente più leggero del mio primo scafo, specialmente nelle estremità, ma più pesante degli scafi professionali. Detto questo la carena è molto robusta, leggera nelle estremità e dovrebbe essere competitiva. Il lavoro di oggi è quello di montare la pinna, la paratia, la modanatura del ponte e la radiocomando e un palo per il punto di decollo delle mura del fiocco. In rotta verso lo scafo finito entro la fine della settimana. Una lunga giornata sigillando la prua e la poppa, (Immagine 18 e 19) rafforzando il ponte di prua, costruendo un palo di prua ultraleggero (Immagine 14), tagliando una fessura nello scafo (Immagine 21), misurando e modellando la paratia di prua (Immagine 15 e 16) , cassa pinna e coperta. Molte immagini qui sotto in un ordine leggermente casuale. Domani spero di incollare tutti i pezzi e poi gli unici altri lavori importanti sono montare le piastre per il servo e il calcio del timone che probabilmente sarà fatto mercoledì. Quindi un'ultima levigatura e praticare tutti i fori per gli accessori del ponte. Finalmente dopo posso avvolgere la barca nel suo vinile blu metallizzato. È un esperimento ma sono sicuro che ne varrà la pena e se non funziona posso sempre dipingerlo. Montare la pinna Ieri si è trattato di montare la scatola delle pinne. Allineare la pinna esattamente nella giusta posizione con le misure di progetto e averla verticale è il lavoro più critico sulla barca. Se sbagli, la barca sarà difficile da bilanciare e potrebbe navigare più in alto con una virata rispetto all'altra. La barca nel mio jig è impostata per essere livellata sulla sua linea di galleggiamento, cioè c'è una linea orizzontale che collega il fondo della prua e il fondo della poppa. Il bordo anteriore della pinna è perpendicolare a questa linea. Ottieni la maschera giusta e tutto è facile. Sul piano ci sono due misure, una dallo scafo al bordo d'attacco della pinna e poi una dalla punta della prua al fondo della pinna dove entra nel bulbo. Impostate queste misure e il bordo d'attacco della pinna dovrebbe essere perpendicolare alla linea di galleggiamento della barca. Ero a meno di una laurea. Vedi immagine 24-27. Per ottenere la pinna esattamente verticale guardando da poppa, livella la barca nel punto della sartia e uso una livella sulla pinna per renderla verticale e poi uso del nastro adesivo per fissarla. La gravità aiuta nella figura 27. La corda nella foto è usata per misurare dalla prua alla pinna ma ho dovuto fare dei buchi nella maschera. Domani posso montare gli ultimi pezzi del ponte e della paratia. Finire l'incollaggio Ieri è stato il giorno dell'incollaggio. Montato il ponte di prua, paratia preforata, portavasi radio e palo della scotta randa. Solo un piccolo errore. Ho dimenticato di sigillare e rinforzare la parte superiore della scatola delle pinne Ho il lavoro più laborioso da fare oggi, più l'adattamento finale per il supporto del servo e il supporto del timone. I lavori di nidificazione prevedono la preforatura di tutti i fori di montaggio, l'applicazione di stucco dove richiesto e la sabbiatura finale pronta per l'applicazione dell'involucro. Quando ho montato il palo della scotta randa, ho misurato accuratamente una linea centrale sul ponte e poi ho fatto lo stesso con una corda a 6 pollici dal ponte. Quindi, utilizzando una squadra, sono stato in grado di ottenere il palo della scotta randa in posizione verticale e allineato con la cassa della pinna, lo strallo posteriore, gli occhi della scotta del fiocco e i punti di attacco del fiocco che sono tutti contrassegnati. Le dita incrociate le vele fisseranno lo stesso su entrambe le virate. Il peso dello scafo finora è di 420 grammi. Il vecchio peso dello scafo a questo punto è di 620 grammi. Forse 350 g è realizzabile con un layup leggermente più sottile. Sono stato generoso con la resina epossidica alla base della pinna, ma è qui che si trovano comunque i correttori. Stima che saranno necessari circa 400 g di correttori. Riordinare Ieri è arrivato l'ultimo rinforzo. Non c'è molto da mostrare in quanto la barca sembra simile al giorno prima ma con l'aggiunta di timone e supporti servo. Dare allo scafo un buon taglio a T per cercare eventuali punti ruvidi e poi l'involucro blu metallizzato Piccoli lavori rimanenti da fare dopo l'avvolgimento come l'adattamento finale della pinna e l'aggiunta dell'elettronica e dei raccordi. Finito il build Con gli ultimi lavori terminati venerdì, lo scafo è pronto per essere fasciato. Ho passato oggi a levigare e pulire lo scafo e la coperta, il montaggio finale della pinna e del timone che è finito esattamente secondo i piani di progettazione e sono entrambi in linea tra loro. Domani sarà il giorno del confezionamento. Ho ordinato i nuovi rig PG da Potters Solutions e un paio di bit e bob da Sailsetc. Una volta che la barca è avvolta posso installare i nuovi rig utilizzando gli accessori esistenti a parte le sartie. Poi un po' di tuning interno e sono pronto per andare in acqua. Non è un involucro L'avvolgimento non è riuscito. C'è così tanta curvatura nello scafo e nella coperta, è necessario allungare così tanto l'involucro prima dell'applicazione e sono necessarie diverse paia di mani, quindi si torna alla verniciatura a spruzzo. La barca è finita a parte lo spray e, come ha detto il signor Gibson, con la vernice è molto meglio che il vinile danneggiato sia impossibile da riparare. Dovrebbe sapere che era solito avvolgere 18 piè di pagina tra le altre cose. Perché non gli ho parlato prima. Il sogno c'era, mancava l'esperienza. Mi è piaciuta la finitura metallica ma non lo sarà. Avanti, su e giù per guardare i 18 piedi regatare intorno al porto di Sydney nel JJ Giltinan. Ovviamente al computer Tempo di decisione sulla vernice È stato un lungo processo cercare di ordinare la vernice per la barca. Potrei usare il mio collaudato poliuretano da 2 componenti che so è resistente e la soluzione giusta, ma voglio spruzzare per mantenere i ponti eleganti. Come sai ho provato ad usare l'involucro di vinile ma le curve della barca si sono rivelate eccessive. La ricerca mi ha portato a bombolette spray di resina epossidica, smalto e altre finiture, ma mi sono imbattuto in una vernice a base acrilica industriale in una bomboletta spray. È progettato per la riparazione di rivestimenti industriali interni o esterni. È un rischio, lo so, ma ho preparato un campione questo pomeriggio e ha un ottimo colore, è duro, flessibile, ottime proprietà UV e resistente ai graffi. La scheda della data è qui: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf Quindi va avanti domani e vedremo come si comporta la vernice. Le immagini sotto mostrano il nuovo aspetto spray su un campione e l'effetto che sto cercando di evitare quando dipingo il poliuretano a 2 componenti. Domani ti mostrerò il risultato e poi vedrò come si usura quando salperemo. Problemi con la batteria L'allestimento dello scafo è completo di chiglia e timone montati in perfetto allineamento. Quando sono andato a testare l'elettronica ho iniziato a caricare la batteria e ho notato subito che si stava gonfiando. Ho rimosso la batteria all'esterno perché ci sono storie interessanti su batterie che esplodono. Altri due su ordinazione. Il progresso è interrotto fino a quando i nuovi longheroni e batterie PG non arriveranno la prossima settimana. Attenzione, tieni d'occhio la batteria Lipo/lifo se non le hai caricate per un po'. Se mostrano segni di espansione, portali fuori di casa. Dentro il piatto della radio Ho letto un articolo di Darren Paulic pubblicato su Facebook RC Sailing Group e può essere trovato qui. Navigazione radiocomandata in acqua salata. Nell'articolo Darren ha parlato dell'importanza di tenere i tuoi dispositivi elettrici fuori dall'acqua e di coprirli con vaselina o grasso al silicone . Ha messo uno strato di neoprene sulla base della batteria e del ricevitore per tenerli lontani dal fondo della radio e proteggerli da qualsiasi infiltrazione d'acqua. Ho pensato a un ulteriore passo avanti per una soluzione semplice e ordinata e ho scoperto che puoi usare del velcro posteriore adesivo che si attacca come sai cosa, anche a Correx, per mantenere la batteria e i componenti del servo separati e fuori dal fondo della pentola. Puoi anche mettere un piccolo pezzo all'estremità dei cavi del ricevitore per tenerli a 90 gradi l'uno dall'altro per prestazioni ottimali del segnale radio. Ricordarsi di posizionare la batteria sulla linea centrale dell'imbarcazione. Immagine 38 e 39. Problemi con il verricello o è stato un errore dell'operatore (Immagine 40) Prima di tutto un grande ringraziamento a Bill Green (RMG UK) che fornisce un servizio eccellente ed è così veloce nel rispondere alle domande. Quando ho smontato e rimontato la mia attrezzatura radio trasferendola sulla nuova barca, non riuscivo a capire perché quando ho girato la mia trasmittente sul verricello si è spostata di oltre un giro. Spegnere il trasmettitore ed è tornato nella sua posizione originale. Una chiamata a Bill dovrebbe risolvere il problema. Ha giustamente detto che dovrei programmare i limiti del verricello come da manuale che non avevo a cupola in precedenza e vedere cosa succede. L'ho fatto ma non ha risolto il problema. Duh, alla fine mi sono ricordato. Durante uno zoom di addestramento di Emsworth, il loro uomo Richard Ballas, che è un mago della radio, aveva parlato della configurazione della modalità failsafe sul trasmettitore. Ciò consente di impostare il timone e la scotta sulla barca in modo che giri in tondo invece di allontanarsi in lontananza se la barca perde il segnale radio. L'avevo installato qualche settimana fa, ma avevo dimenticato cosa avrebbe fatto. Ogni volta che spegnevo la trasmittente la scotta veniva allentata di un giro e mezzo e il timone ruotava di 25 gradi. Accendere la trasmittente e scotta e timone tornano nella loro posizione originale. Problema risolto, ora tutto ciò che devo fare è mettere a punto l'impostazione del verricello quando è completamente attrezzato. Pesi delle correnti finora: Scafo nudo verniciato 460 grammi Raccordi e RC 373 gms Timone 32 g Lampadina e pinna 2500 g Stima dell'attrezzatura da 235 a 300 g Quindi stima da 365 a 400 g di correttori. Ecco la barca in tutto il suo splendore. Next Section Build the rigs
- Choosing the right rig | IOM Build Race Tune
Prima di un evento Determina qual è il tuo obiettivo nella vela Conosci il tuo regole e tattiche di corsa Gestisci il tuo investimento con attenzione manutenzione della barca Naviga veloce con la destra messa a punto e configurazione della barca Conosci i tuoi radiocomandi Efficace pratica della barca Garantire una configurazione coerente utilizzando liste di controllo Sapere come il tempo ti aiuterà Utile Riferimenti
- Craigs Setip guide 2 | IOM Build Race Tune
Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve
- DF95 | IOM Build Race Tune
A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Enjoy.